Day 12 – Milford Sound 

This morning was a sleep in day but of course I was awake bright & early. I poked my head between the curtains & was blessed with an incredible view of mountains & stars galore! I snuggled back into bed with my love beside me. I am in heaven. 

We had a decadent breakfast & then wandered along the lake track. It’s such a beautiful track covered in frost flowers – ice crystals are such stunning things no wonder Dr Emoto made such effort to photograph water crystals. There were a few areas where we had to scramble around the rocks which would have been fine in summer but was a bit precarious while covered in frost. 


We walked around the foreshore again and it was like a completely different place with the tide high. It was quite a sight to see the frost over the sand. We even found a swing tied between a couple of trees. 

When we walked up to the cafe we saw a Kea behaving as all birds do – trying to get into the garbage bin. 


We joined our cruise at 12.30 & headed out passed the waterfall & marvelled at the majesty of the Sound while learning about its discovery & creation.


We briefly sailed out into the Tasman – “the sea that keeps Australia away” – before turning around & heading back.  


We saw seals resting on rocks & sailed under a waterfall which was very cool & wet. They gave us a red waterproof jacket to wear which together with all the other layers we’re wearing makes us look like 2 giant red balloons. 


We stopped at the discovery centre & New Zealand’s only floating underwater observatory. Here we learned about deep water emergence & were able to go underwater without leaving the building & see black coral which was actually white & an 11 legged starfish. 


We then headed back to the boat terminal. There’s an amazing amount to see but not a lot to do in Milford Sound. We had wandered the foreshore at low & high tide so we tried the lookout track but it looked to the west so it was hard to see past the blinding sun. We decided to walk further down the Cleddau River to what would be kayak meeting point in summer. We saw the kayaks awaiting warmer weather, lobster traps, buoys, fishing boats & more amazing scenery. 


As the sun dipped behind the mountains & the temperature dropped we headed back to the lodge for a lovely dinner then to put our feet up & relax. 

The gobspell of Gru….

Sooo, what to do in Milf?

There is a valley and pair of mountains to explore!

If it was Summer, you could kayak, if it wasn’t winter you could fish or walk the tracks, but to get to them you need a car. How ironic! You need a car to go walking!

But we did do a bit of walking using just our feet and it was nice as the scene changed with the tide and the degree of difficulty in walking alone increased as the sun sets behind the towering cliff high above sending the temperature plummeting and freezing the ground and anything near it.

For anyone that knows me, I am a bit of a conservationist. I agree that I have a higher regard for the planet and many species upon it, not necessarily all humans. So imagine my surprise when I travel thousands of kilometres, spending thousands of dollars, leaving a carbon foot print bigger than Ronald’s Red Boot, to find this remote and pristine location busier than Bankstown Airport and the air quality as tasty as Aviation Fuel.

The noise of aircraft, both fixed and rotary is constant and at times just plain obtrusive, and surprisingly the number of vessels operating out of this port is like Circular Quay. I kid you not! Add to that the local Lobster fleet, fishing fleet and occasional cruise ship (and I mean the big passenger type, not the actor – he’s a twat) and you have quite a cocktail of fuels, oils and human waste being dumped into the UNISCO Heritage area.

I know, it is a tourist destination, nothing more. I know, if it wasn’t for tourism this place wouldn’t be known and exploited as it is. 

It pissed me off to go walking through the village where the 150 or so Winter Workers reside (marked private property – keep out) to find the roads and yards are full of rubbish. Seriously, clean it up! I applaud what you do in having the tourists sort and dispose of rubbish as they are asked, but take a look at your village, it is surrounded on three side by tidal waters, UNISCO style!

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